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letter of the ingredient you would like to know more about
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PABA
(Para Amino Benzoic Acid) - A vitamin B complex acid
used as a "building block" in sunscreens. Tremendous
UVB absorption qualities.
Padimate
O (Octyl Dimethyl PABA or 2-Ethyihexyl PABA) - The
ester of 2-ethyihexyl alcohol and dimethyl paminobenzoic acid.
A "PABA~free" sunscreen, Padimate O is a derivative
of PABA, but is no longer PABA.
Panthenol
- A biologically active substance that metabolizes to vitamin
B5 in the skin. Known for its revitalizing and conditioning
effects in the hair and skin. It has humectant-like properties
that promote moisture absorption.
Parsley
- Petroselinum sativum. Soothes skin.
PEG
(Polyethylene Glycol or Polyoxyethylene Glycol) -
Polymeric forms of ethylene oxide. An organic configuration
that is reacted with various other molecules to produce a
wide range of cosmetic materials. Higher numbers mean higher
ethoxilation, which usually means higher solubility in water.
(PEG-75 Lanolin has protective and emollient properties, while
PEG-20 Stearate is an emulsifier.)
PEG-80
Sorbitan Laurate - An ethoxylated sorbitol monoester
of lauric acid with an average of 80 moles of ethylene oxide.
A mild surfactant.
PEG-100
Stearate - Derived from stearic aid. Emulsifier for
creams and lotions.
PEG-20
Stearate - A water soluble emulsifier for triglycerides,
waxes, and mineral oils.
PEG-150
Distearate - Form stabilizer; hair and skin conditioner.
Peppermint
Oil - Obtained from peppermint leaves. Mild anesthetic,
or flavoring material.
Petrolatum
- Petroleum derived, inexpensive substance used to prevent
moisture loss. Tends to feel tacky.
Phospholipids
- Complex fatty materials found in all living cells. Emollient,
antioxidant, natural emulsifiers, spreading agents.
Phosphoric
Acid - An inorganic acid - a pH adjuster.
Pineapple
Extract - Contains the protein digesting and blood
clotting enzyme bromelin, anti-inflammatory.
Placental
Extract - Aqueous extract of bovine or human placentas
after birthing. A naturally rich source of skin nutrients,
amino acids, and proteins that has a revitalizing effect on
skin.
Planell
Oil - Emollient. Mixture of naturally derived phytosterols
and glycolipids.
Polyquaternium
7 - Conditioner used in both rinse-off and leave-in
conditioner preparations.
Polysorbate
20 - A mixture of laurate esters of sorbitol and
sorbitol anhydrides, consisting of monoester, condensed with
approximately 20 moles of ethylene oxide. Versatile oil-in-water
emulsifier, very water-soluble solubilizer for essential oils,
fragrances and vegetable oils in aqueous solutions. Viscosity
modifier in shampoos, liquid soaps and conditioners.
Potassium
Hydroxide - Utilized to bring pH to an optimum range
for most efficient product function.
Pristane
- A saturated hydrocarbon found in natural oils
Propane
- A natural propellant.
Propylene
Glycol - An aliphatic alcohol serving as an humectant
in skin products and a solvent for preservatives, essential
oils, flavors and fragrances. Also used in preparation of
herbal extracts.
Propylene
Glycol Stearate - As ester of propylene glycol and
stearic acid. Used in creams, lotions, hair care products
and makeups as co-emulsifier to produce a pearly opaque effect.
Propylparaben
- Common cosmetic preservative that is anti-fungal and anti-microbial.
Less water soluble than methylparaben.
Protovanol
- A concentrated form of vanilla used as a natural tanning
accelerator. Requires heat and light to drive it.
Purified
Water - See deionized water.
Qnaternium-15
& 19 - A preservative active against a wide spectrum
of microbial organisms. A quaternary ammonium salt.
Quaternary
Ammonium Salts (QUATS) - Various derivatives in this
group are used in waterproof sunscreens because they impart
cationic properties to compounds. QUATS chemically react with
the skin, making lotions they are in more water resistant.
Red
Clover Flowers - A skin soothing ingredient.
Red
Raspberry Leaves - Leaves of the red raspberry, rubus
idaeus. Astringent.
Retinyl
Paimitate - Vitamin A. Useful in cosmetics as a skin
normalizer. Works to moisturize dry skin and reduce excess
oil.
Riboflavin
- Vitamin B2. Works with soluble tyrosine in suntan-enhancing
products. Believed to accelerate tyrosine in tanning products.
Produces a characteristic yellow color in lotions.
Robane
- Obtained from shark oil. Helps skin absorb oxygen and acts
to fight bacteria.
Rosemary
Extract - Valued for its reviving, blood vessel-widening,
and invigorating properties.
Safflower
Oil - An emollient oil with a high content of unsaturated
fats, making for ease of penetration.
Sage
Extract - Oil of the herbal plant salvia officinalis
- Smells like camphor. Astringent. Supposedly has healing
powers. Used by some to prevent drying.
Salicylic
Acid - Occurs naturally in wintergreen, sweet birch
and other plants. Anti-microbial. Keratolytic properties,
softens skin and hair. Used in making aspirin.
Sambucus
Nigra Extract - Sambucus extract is derived from
the Elder tree flower. Elder is known as the herbalist's cosmetic
tree since every part of the plant is said to aid in complexion
beauty. Sambucus Extract also has soothing properties.
SD Alcohol
40 - A pure ethyl alcohol from grain (corn) that
has been specially denatured. Functions as a vehicle for application
of functional components. Essential for proper viscosity control
and rapid drying.
Sea
Kelp - Ahnfeltia extract. The calcined ashes of seaweeds,
from which iodine is obtained; a large, coarse seaweed or
wrack. Skin soother.
Sea
Wrack - Seaweed from the shore.
Selenium
Protein Complex (Biomin S-P-C) - Neutralizes free
radicals on the skin, which is thought to minimize the aging
effects of the sun. Also serves as a counter irritant.
Sesame
Oil - A light, emollient oil obtained from sesame
seeds.
Shea
Butter - A natural lipid obtained from the fruit
of the karite tree, butyrosperum parkii. The slightly greenish
butter with soothing protecting qualities is said to have
some sunscreening ability.
Silk
Amino Acids - The mixture of amino acids resulting
from the complete hydrolysis of silk. The principal amino
acids contained within are glycine, alanine, and serine. Their
low molecular weight indicates that the molecules can penetrate
the cuticle in undamaged hair as well as the surface layer
of the epidermis. Silk amino acids improve skin and hair with
regard to feel and gloss, and have a moisturizing effect due
to their water-binding properties.
Silver
Fir Oil - Strong, fresh, pine aroma. Refreshing and
revitalizing properties.
Slippery
Elm Bark - The dried inner bark of ulmus fulva. Used
for its soothing and softening properties. A product of the
North American elm tree.
Soap
Bark - A perennial herb native to Europe and parts
of Asia. A natural cleanser.
Sodium
C14-16 Olefin Suffonate - Surfactant derived from
coconut oil. Used in "soapless" shampoos. Mixture
of long chain of surfactant salts.
Sodium
Chloride - A purified salt used for its natural cleansing,
toning, refreshening, and astringent properties.
Sodium
Laureth Suffate - The sodium salt of sulfated ethoxylated
lauryl alcohol. A high foaming, viscous surfactant, milder
to the skin than sodium lauryl sulfate. Excellent cleansing
agent for shampoos.
Sodium
PCA - A sodium salt of 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic
acid, a natural moisturizing factor component. A humectant
and emollient. Holds several times its weight in water.
Sodium
laureth-13 Carboxylate - An anionic surfactant increasing
the cleansing power of some shampoos.
Sodium
Saccharin - Artificial flavoring, sweetner. Non-caloric.
Pound for pound, 300 times sweeter than sugar. Used in mouthwash,
denitrifies, lipsticks.
Sodium
Trideceth Sulfate - A sodium salt of sulfated ethoxylated
tridecyl alcohol. An excellent wetting agent for shampoo preparations,
as well as baby shampoos.
Sorbitan
Stearate - Used as an emulsifier of essential oils
in lotion products. Thickens and stabilizes emulsions.
Sorbitol
- A humectant that leaves skin with a velvety feeling. Derived
from fruits, seaweed, and algae. Similar to naturally occurring
glycerin.
Soya
Bean Extract - A natural conditioning and gloss agent
derived from soy beans.
Squalane
- A saturated branched chain of hydrocarbon obtained from
hydrogenating shark liver oil. It is found in small quantities
in human sebum. A natural emollient; very spreadable and soothing
to the skin.
Stearalkonium
Chloride - Quaternary ammonium compound. Used in
hair conditioners. Conditioner.
Stearamidopropyl
Dimethylamine - An amidoamine. Conditioner.
Stearic
acid - A common, naturally occurring fatty acid widely
used as an inexpensive primary emulsifying agent. When neutralized
with triethanolamine, it functions as a tremendous thickening
agent. Its soap-like character enables it to penetrate the
skin and to have emollient, skin-softening properties.
Stearyl
Alcohol - An emulsion stabilizer; also adds body
to a lotion.
Sunflower
Oil - Obtained from sunflower seeds. Bland, pale
yellow oil that contains large amounts of Vitamin E. Natural
oil.
Sweet
AImond Oil - The fixed oil obtained from the ripe
seed kernel of prunus persica dulsis. Emollient.
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